Does your Mum have a tablet or e-reader, she loves to take on the road? Why not make her a customised case, that features a floral design built-in to the Husqvarna Viking Sapphire™ 85 Sewing and Embroidery machine.
Learn how to sew a tablet case with elegant embroidery and simple stitching, by following the easy step-by-step instructions below.
Press the pellon to the back of the vinyl front panel and back panel. Use a pressing cloth/Teflon sheet and press from the pellon side, not the vinyl side.
Press the interfacing to the lining on the front panel, back panel & front flap.
Embroidering the front flap of the tablet case:
1 - Hoop tearaway only in 260x200 hoop.
2 - Centre the vinyl in the hoop.
3 - Secure the edges with pins. These holes will be hidden in the seam allowance.
4 - Retrieve the Signature Design from Menu A Design 1, and centre in the hoop.
5 - Stitch out the design in your desired colours.
6 - Take out of the hoop and remove excess stabiliser.
7 - Lay the front flap right side up on a table.
8 - Measure down and mark (7.5cm) 3” from the top right and top left edge.
9 - Mark the bottom centre of the panel.
10 - Cut from the (7.5cm) 3” mark to the centre mark on both sides.
11 - Cut the lining piece the same size as the front flap.
12 - Lay the front flap right sides down over the front flap lining piece.
13 - Use the ¼” foot included with the Designer Sapphire™ 85 Sewing and Embroidery Machine to stitch down all sides except the top section. Leave this open.
14 - Turn the flap through the top section.
15 - Press from the lining side.
16 - Attach the Interchangeable Dual Feed Foot with the ¼” soul (included with the Designer Sapphire™ 85 Sewing and Embroidery Machine), increase the straight stitch length to 3.5 and decrease the foot pressure to 4.5.
Search the JoyOS Reference Guide if you are unsure where to find these settings.
17 - The inside edge of the foot will give a 1/8” topstitch measurement.
18 - Topstitch around the three seamed edges.
19 - Use a sharp seam ripper to cut through the layers of thread on the centre flower to create the thread velvet effect.
20 - Put to the side.
Embroidering the front panel of the tablet case
1 - Retrieve design from Menu A, Design 18.
2 - Duplicate the design.
3 - Mirror Image top to bottom
4 - Use the alignment lines to position side by side. These lines will show up automatically when moving designs around. Use the fine tune arrows to move in small increments where needed. See Page 98 of the manual for Alignment information.
5 - Open the Toolbox and Select All.
6 - Select Scale and change the size to 285.0 vertical. This will change the size of the design proportionally.
7 - Touch the designs and drag out of the right side of the hoop area. The outside of the hoop area will highlight red.
8 - Select the Move to Hoop icon. This will move the designs to directly inside the hoop area.
9 - Select Position and touch the vertical position. Change this to 0. Your design should now sit against the right side of the hoop and in the centre vertically.
10 - Press GO.
11 - Hoop tearaway in 360x200 hoop.
12 - Lay the back panel vertically centre and hard against the inside right edge of the hoop.
13 - Pin in place around the outside edges.
14 - Go to Design Positioning and move the locked point on the design to a position of 90. Press the tick.
15 - Select Colour Sort. NOT Colour Merge.
16 - Skip colour 1. This is for an endless design
17 - Stitch colour 2.
18 - Skip Colour 3. This is for an endless design.
19 - Stitch the remaining colours.
20 - Remove from the hoop and take away excess stabiliser.
21 - Place to the side
Stitching the back panel of the tablet case
1 - Select JoyOS and Start New
2 - Press tick to clear ongoing work.
3 - Select Stitch Menu.
4 - Go to Menu L.
5 - Double tap Stitch number 15 to bring the design into the centre of the hoop.
6 - Select Design Shaping.
7 - Open the tab, Shape Menu and select the Straight Line.
8 - Choose Rotate and select 90 degrees
9 - Select Scale and change the length to 280mm.
10 - Open Select Spacing and touch Left Justified.
11 - Choose 7 repeats of the stitch. Tick to return to the Edit screen.
12 - Touch outside the design area to deselect the design.
13 - Select Stitch Menu
14 - Go to Menu F and select double tap stitch 13.
15 - Go to Design Shaping
16 - Open Shape Menu and select the Straight Line.
17 - Choose Rotate and select 90 degrees
18 - Select Scale and change the length to 280mm.
19 - Open Select Spacing and touch Left Justified.
20 - Choose 24 repeats of the stitch.
21 - Open Select Spacing again and select Evenly Spaced.
22 - Tick to return to the Edit screen.
23 - Select the original design and press Centre in Hoop
24 - Touch the smaller stitches and drag to the right of the middle design. Use the Alignment lines to help centre. The position should be Horizontal 15.5 and Vertical 0.
25 - Change the Horizontal Position to 25.0 and leave the Vertical 0.
26 - Select Duplicate and move the second design to the left of centre.
27 - Change the Position to -25.0 and 0.
28 - Save the design.
29 - Go to embroidery stitch out.
30 - Hoop 360x200 Hoop with tearaway only.
31 - Draw a line 2” in from the long edge of the right-hand side of the vinyl panel.
32 - Place the vinyl in the hoop with the right edge hard against the inside edge of the hoop and centered vertically.
33 - Go to Design Positioning
34 - Select Toolbox and the centre position.
35 - Move the design to line up with the (5cm) 2” mark. The Position should be 0.0 vertically.
36 - Press tick.
37 - Stitch the design.
38 - The first section of the design stop to allow you to place small pieces of vinyl behind the needle for applique.
Tip: We recommend you to use your JoyOS ADVISOR™ feature and locate the dimensional stitches project for instructions on how to sew dimensional stitches and automatically get the correct settings.
39 - Once the centre line has finished stitching, press Monochrome and let the machine complete the design.
40 - Remove from the hoop and take away excess stabiliser.
Putting the tablet case together
Centre the front flap right sides down onto the right side of the back panel. Use clips to hold in place.
Baste the flap to the back panel with 1/8” seam allowance and 4mm stitch. Use the Interchangeable Dual Feed Foot with a reduced foot pressure of 3.5.
Place a piece of lining right sides down over this and use a ¼” seam and stitch length of 3.0 to secure.
Fold the lining back and topstitch along the back panel & lining.
Put the front panel and lining right sides together.
Stitch with a ¼” seam allowance along the top.
Flip to right sides out and fold over. Top stitch as before.
Open out and place the front and back right sides together.
Stitch around the three edges leaving the bottom of the lining open.
Turn through and turn in the seam on the bottom of the lining.
Stitch down.
Push the lining into the case, fill it with your reading tablet, pack a cold drink, head to the beach and enjoy!!!
Conclusion
Now you have learned how to sew a tablet case for Mum this Mother’s day, why not make one for yourself? This is a practical project that will make your tablet or e-reader incredibly stylish.
Try using a different embroidery design, or even some applique to make a truly unique design to you.
If you make this tablet case, or any other projects on our blog be sure to tag us at @husqavrnaviking_sewing_aus on Instagram and use the hashtag #husqvarnavikingsewing, so we can see your wonderful creations.
As a sewing machine manufacturer and retailer, we get many questions emailed to us. Some asking for advice on which machine to buy, and some asking some curly questions that set us on a path of discovery. One such query came through to me the other day.
“Is there a foot that will help me sew 18mm fold-over elastic and get a professional finish?”
My initial reaction was no, not specifically, however upon further reflection I thought maybe there is. I did what any person does these days and went to google. There were plenty of people sewing fold over elastic, but they were using the standard foot or the open toe foot. Hmmm, I think we can do better than that!
My first thought was to use the Husqvarna Viking Adjustable Bias Foot. That was designed to sew on bias tape quickly and very easily. The biggest concern was the thickness of the elastic. The width was not a concern because the Adjustable Bias Foot can be adjusted to fit bias tapes in different widths, from ¼” (6 mm) to ¾” (20 mm). However, on close inspection, the foot has a fantastic opening that allows much thicker items to pass through. A must when folding over elastics.
Out of all the fabrics, threads and accouterments I have, I did not have fold over elastic. Shocker! That necessitated a quick (quick-ish) trip to my local shop for the item in question. Fortunately, they stocked said item and I was away to see how this would all turn out.
I decided to use the Husqvarna Viking Opal 650. A fabulous machine with an excellent selection of stitches and functionality.
Husqvarna Viking machines have an incredible sewing advisor that will change the settings when the fabric type is selected. With the elastic, I set the sewing advisor to Stretch Medium and this set the stitch length, width and advised me of the needle type, the foot pressure to use and a suggested tension setting. I love this feature when I am trying something new, it takes the guesswork out of the equation.
As the machine recommended, I released the foot pressure. This is due to the thickness of the layers traveling underneath the foot. Most machines will have this, refer to your machine manual if unsure about your machine. I took the foot pressure on the Husqvarna Viking Opal 650 down to 4. It normally sits on a setting of 5.
I decided to use a straight stitch to get started. As with any topstitching, I increase the length of my straight stitch to give a more professional look and help the machine to feed through the multiple layers much easier. I used a length of 3mm to get started with. You will notice that the stitch does not look 3mm once stitched out. That is quite normal when sewing on stretch, hence the longer stitch length.
It was very easy to feed the folded elastic through the opening of the foot. Simply adjust the width of the opening by rolling the dial on the front of the foot. Keep the elastic secure but ensure not to over-tighten otherwise the elastic will struggle to feed through as you are sewing.
Next step is to line up the elastic with the needle. This can be done one of two ways. Move your needle left or right (adjust the stitch width) or loosen the screw on top of the foot and move the bias foot left or right. Either way is perfectly fine.
Then insert your fabric into the foot and keep it as straight as possible. The elastic will feed through because of the guide. Your job is to ensure the main fabric is kept straight and to put tension on the elastic if you are after a gathered finish.
Success!!! I had never sewn fold-over elastic before and I have to say I was exceedingly impressed with the Adjustable Bias Foot. My stitches were perfect on the top and on the back. The foot guided the elastic through evenly and took away the human error part. Too much on the top and not enough on the bottom and vice versa.
Just to make sure this wasn’t a fluke, I did this many times and tried different stitches. I recommend using any stitch that travels in a forward motion as opposed to decorative stitches that travel forward and back. For example, use the zig zag or 3-step zig zag. The feather stitch is also a good one.
I also used a 20mm standard elastic (no fold line) and had great success with that as well. All in all, I can’t recommend the Husqvarna Viking Adjustable Bias Foot enough to professionally sew your fold-over elastic projects. Perfect for those By Annie patterns!
1 ) Cut White Background Fabric into 2 pieces 41cm x 31cm (16”x12”).
2 ) Cut Blue Casing Fabric into 2 pieces 29cm x 10cm (11 ½”x4”).
3 ) Press the 15cm (6”) square of Fusible Webbing behind each piece of blue fabric. This is for the snowflakes.
Note: The snowflakes can be done in many ways. I chose the AccuQuilt system as it is quick & extremely accurate. Feel free to create the applique snowflakes with any method you chose.
Instructions
1 ) Cut out as many snowflakes as you would like to cover your Santa Sack. I have done six as my snowflakes are rather large. If you are using the AccuQuilt system, ensure you are only putting six layers through at a time. If you have pressed the fusible webbing to the fabric and have left the paper on then that is counted as three layers. Go to accuquilt.com.au for full operational instructions if you have not used the cutter before.
2 ) Place the snowflakes onto the right side of one of the white background fabrics. Feel free to decorate both sides of the Santa. I have only done one.
3 ) Once happy with the placement, use an iron and press the appliques in place.
4 ) Place a piece of tearaway behind the white background fabric. Make the tearaway piece slightly larger than the white fabric.
5 ) I have used several methods to applique the snowflakes down. You can do one method for all or mix it up like I have done to create individualized flakes.
a ) Select a Zig Zag stitch and take the length to 2.0 and the width to 2.0. Put the Open Toe Foot onto the machine and carefully stitch around the edges of the applique.
b ) Select and Buttonhole or Blanket Stitch. In this case I have chosen stitch 10 from Menu 2. Keep the stitch small to make it proportionate to your applique piece.
c ) Put your machine into Free Motion. Drop the Feed Teeth and insert the Open Toe Free Motion Spring Foot. You may need to adjust the tension depending on the thread being used. As I was using an embroidery thread on top and bobbin fill underneath I needed to drop my tension. Always have a test piece of fabric close by to see how your machine & thread selection will work.
On one snowflake I stitched just inside the applique edge. (Approximately 1.5-2.0mm). I went around just once.
On another snowflake I went around the edge of the applique about 3-5 times to give a sketched look.
I encourage you to experiment and see what amazing stitching you can do around your snowflakes.
6 ) To create the casing for the ribbon, take one piece of the blue fabric and fold right sides together lengthwise. Set the machine to Stitch 1 in Menu 2. Place the A Foot onto the machine and you now have a ¼” seam allowance from the needle to the right edge of the foot. Stitch down one end and along the long edge to form a tube.
7 ) Turn the casing right side out.
8 ) Roll in the open end of the casing and top stitch closed. Repeat the top stitch on the other end to make the case look even.
9 ) Repeat this for the second casing.
10 ) Position the casing 5cm (2”) from the top and using a 3mm long straight stitch, top stitch in place. Do this for the front and back sections.
11 ) Place the front and back of the Santa Sack right sides together. Pin around all three edges leaving the top.
12 ) Use Foot A and a straight stitch with the needle in the centre position. Stitch around all three sides leaving the top open. Use the right edge of the foot against the raw edge of the fabric. Select stitch 9 in Menu 1 and put Edging and Overcasting Foot J onto the machine.
13 ) Stitch around each of the three sides again to overlock the raw edges. Alternatively use an overlocker.
14 ) Roll over the top edge of the Santa Sack ¼” then another ¼”and use a straight stitch with a length of 3mm to stitch the hem
15 ) Finally, cut the ribbon in half. Insert into the left edge of the casing and feed through to the right on the front of the sack. Then feed the same piece of ribbon into the back casing so the end of the ribbon comes out on the same side as the beginning.
16 ) Repeat this process from the opposite side with the second piece of ribbon.
17 ) When you pull on each side of the ribbon it will secure the top of the Santa Sack.
The Husqvarna Viking Ruby 90 has an incredible selection of built in Signature Designs. These include forestry, florals, toadstools, seashells & combi vans. When I first saw these designs, I knew I wanted to create a project. With the days warming, now is the perfect time to create a table setting for the outdoors.
These designs are exclusive to Husqvarna Viking Ruby 90 owners. They are not currently available for purchase and cannot be shared.
One of my passions is to take a set of designs into the mySewnet software and arrange them in many ways. However, with the Ruby 90 the designers have done the hard work for us. I especially enjoy the larger Majestic Hoop (360x350) designs that have been included.
I purchased pre-made placemats and a table runner previously and knew the ocean-themed designs would work a treat.
First thing was to use the endless sea life design on one end of the placemats. This was a no brainer. Because the placemats are really large, I am able to see the design even with plates in place.
To stitch out the designs, use two layers of Inspira Dissolve Away Plus in the hoop. Lay the placemat over the hoop in the desired position and Baste in place. Basting is a fabulous built-in feature of the Ruby 90.
To create the table runner took a little more thought. First I stitched out the centre design. This was done on the Designer Majestic Hoop. A massive 360 x 350mm of embroidery space!
It is easier to stitch out the majestic-sized Sea Wreath design first and then change to a smaller hoop and stitch out the wording separately. I did this because the lettering has long satin stitches and it would not stitch successfully. You would see the line and spoil the end product.
The ends were the most fun. I had to use the Combi designs somewhere in the project. So, I had a play with the software and arranged the designs as you can see. Now I may have done a little modification here and there to make a few things fit. But if you have a table runner a little bigger than mine, you won’t need to do that.
I encourage you to use the built-in designs on the machine. There are still more that I am yet to play with. Seas the day sewers!
Scare the pants off family and friends with this glow-in-the-dark goody bowl. Completely done in the hoop, this fabulous Halloween accessory is sure to impress everyone.
To get the glow-in-the-dark web I have used the Superior Threads Nite Lite thread. This is available from all good Husqvarna Viking retailers.
To create this project, I have used the mySewnet Platinum software. The spider SuperDesign is from the plethora of designs built-in to this exceedingly versatile software package.
Have fun creating this project and have even more fun watching the reactions!
Requirements:
Embroidery Machine with a 200mm x 200mm Hoop compatibility
Superior Threads Nite Lite, Glow in the Dark Thread
Embroidery Threads & Bobbin Fill
Applique Scissors
General Sewing Requirements
Construction:
1. Hoop a layer of Whisper Web Mesh into the 200mm x 200mm Hoop.
2. Retrieve the design ‘Spider Bowl’.
3. Stitch colour 1 onto the Whisper Web Mesh.
4. Lay Fabric 1 over the outline and stitch colour 2. DO NOT trim away the excess fabric at this stage. It will be done after putting on the second fabric.
5. Thread machine with the Glow in the Dark thread and stitch colour 3.
6. Thread the machine with a grey for the spider and stitch colour 4.
7. Place Fabric 2 underneath the hoop with the wrong side facing the stabiliser.
8. Stitch colour 5 to hold the fabric in place.
9. Carefully cut around the outside of the circle to remove excess fabrics from on top and underneath the hoop. Cut as close to the stitching as possible without cutting the stitches.
10. Thread the machine with the edging colour you require and match that colour in the bobbin. Stitch colour 6.
11. Thread the machine with the colour required for the buttonholes with a matching colour in the bobbin. Stitch colour 7.
12. Remove the project from the hoop and carefully cut away the excess stabiliser. Make sure you don’t cut the stitches
13. Carefully cut each buttonhole and thread the ribbon through each one.
14. Pull the ribbon tight enough to form sides on the bowl. Tie off with a simple knot or bow.
15. Fill your bowl with inviting sweets and see the faces turn sour!
I can’t tell you how excited I get when a new machine comes along. From the first look at the pretty exterior packaging to delving into the awesome accessories. Best of all, that first touch of new buttons. You know the ones, the button that you have no clue what it does!
The Husqvarna Viking Epic 95Q has a built-in Adjustable Laser Sewing Guidance light. Imagine my joy and relief knowing my stitching will now be straight with this incredible system. All of this at the touch of one button!
Not only will it keep me on the straight and narrow, it also works in perfect symmetry with the Laser Pictogram Stitches in the new “I” Menu. These stitches look deceptively simple on the 10.1” colour capacitive touch screen but use a little programming and then illuminate your path with the laser light and you will discover a new way of sewing, quilting and decorative stitching.
This can be used to keep you on track when sewing straight lines and decorative stitches. Perfect for keeping your quilted lines parallel and stitching together your 2 ½” strips on the bias for your quilt bindings.
The light can move 30mm either side of the needle giving you the perfect guide for 3/8” or 5/8” seam allowances. With the contrast adjustment, the laser light is visible on all colours and in all settings.
To learn more tips and tricks with the Adjustable Laser Sewing Guidance system click here to download informative instructions with full colour pictures.
For the perfect project to play with this amazing feature click here.
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