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(Featuring Coverlock and Flatlock Embellishments)

Make custom water bottle carriers for your next family outing!

Your HUSQVARNA® VIKING® AMBER™ Air S|600 coverlock machine, the perfect complement to your HUSQVARNA® VIKING® sewing machine, offers stitch techniques that allow you to create a unique design for each bottle carrier, making them easily distinguishable from one another. Try color blocking fabrics with flatlock stitches, adding trim with triple coverstitching, and sewing bold topstitching using the chainstitch. This project also provides a way to use some of your leftover fabrics from previous projects!

Because water bottles come in a wide range of sizes and shapes, these instructions are designed to offer general guidelines for how you can create a customized carrier for your specific water bottle, including how to measure fabric for your preferred bottle size.

The carrier can be worn over the shoulder or as a cross-body style, so adjust the strap length as desired. Happy Hiking!

SUPPLIES NEEDED

HUSQVARNA® VIKING® AMBER™ Air S|600 coverlock machine

HUSQVARNA® VIKING® sewing machine

Fabrics for outside of carrier and base

Fabric for inside lining and base lining

Fabric for carrier strap

Thermal batting for carrier and base

Lightweight fusible interfacing (optional)

Threads for construction

Basting tape or fabric spray adhesive (to secure trims before stitching - optional)

½” Bias maker

Decorative topstitching thread for flatlock embellishment (optional)

PREPARING THE FABRICS AND BATTING

Prepare the materials needed for carrier featuring coverstitch trim:

a)Fabrics for Outside of Carrier, Inside Lining and Batting To determine how to cut your fabric to go around the carrier, first measure the height and the circumference of your water bottle. To this measurement, add a ¼” seam allowance to both the top and bottom, and ½” on each side (or 1” total) for ¼” seam allowance, plus ease. Using this measurement, cut one fabric for the outer carrier, cut one for the lining, and cut one from the thermal batting.

b) One-inch strips for creating trim with bias maker, plus contrast fabric for the top of carrier (if desired).

c) Fabric for Strap

To determine the length of fabric for the strap, first decide if you will wear the carrier in a cross-body style or from the shoulder. Use a tape measure to find the length you want and add seam allowances to that measurement. Cut the strap fabric 2½” wide by the desired length. This will yield a 1” wide finished strap.

d) Fabrics for Round Base

The required size for the base fabrics (outer fabric, lining fabric and batting) will be determined near the end of these instructions, once the main carrier body has been assembled.

SEWING DIRECTIONS

Make the Strap

Fold the strip in half lengthwise, with the right sides facing (wrong side out). Sew the length of the strap using a ¼” seam allowance. Turn the strap right side out, then press.

Select the Chainstitch, which is Stitch #26 on the screen of your HUSQVARNA® VIKING® AMBER™ Air S|600 coverlock machine. Sew two rows of chainstitch on the strap, as decorative topstitching. When finished, press again. Set aside for now.

Prepare the Inside Lining and Batting

Place the thermal batting onto the wrong side of the lining fabric. Loosely quilt them together with your sewing machine, or if desired, use the chainstitch of your coverlock machine.

Press. Set aside for now. (The base will be created later)

Prepare the Outer Fabric

The outer fabric is embellished before the carrier is assembled. This carrier features narrow strips of fabric, stitched onto the main fabric using your

HUSQVARNA® VIKING® AMBER™ Air S|600 triple coverstitch. There is a contrasting fabric band added to the top, as well, made using the same fabric as that used for the narrow strips.

Before attaching the narrow strips to the main fabric, it may be helpful to interface the wrong side of the fabric first with a lightweight fusible interfacing, for added stability while stitching the narrow strips in place with the triple coverstitch.

The strips shown are made using a ½” bias tape maker. Cut the fabric strips one inch wide, on straight grain, then proceed creating the desired number of strips using the bias tape maker.

Determine placement for the strips. To help prevent the strips from shifting while sewing, you may wish to secure them lightly in place using basting tape or temporary fabric spray adhesive.

Thread your HUSQVARNA® VIKING® AMBER™ Air S|600 for Stitch #23, which is the triple coverstitch. Your machine automatically sets the thread tensions, stitch length and differential feed for you. Check the stitch and make any adjustments using a scrap fabric. Sew the strips in place. Press. To add a contrast fabric at the top, position as desired - above the coverstitched strips - and stitch in place with your sewing machine.

Assembling the Carrier

Pin the strap in place on the outer carrier. Baste in place, checking first to make sure that the strap is not twisted. Set the quilted lining onto the outer fabric/strap piece, then pin. Use your sewing machine to sew the seam, then press the seam open. Trim seam allowance from the batting side to help reduce bulk.

To sew the seam finishes on the two long sides, set your

HUSQVARNA® VIKING® AMBER™ Air S|600 for the 3-thread overlock wide, which is Stitch #6 your screen. Because you will be stitching through multiple fabric layers, you may want to use the HUSQVARNA® VIKING® AMBER™ Air S|600 Exclusive SEWING ADVISOR, to have the machine automatically adjust your machine settings for thicker

layers. Touch the SEWING ADVISOR icon, then select “Woven Heavy” (setting C). Test the stitch on scrap fabrics. Sew a seam finish along each long side, trimming only a very scant amount as you go.

Pin the side seams, taking care not to catch the strap into the seam. Sew the long seam using your sewing machine. Turn right side out, then push the quilted lining to the inside. Check the fit with your bottle. If any adjustment to the seam is needed, do so at this point before moving on to the next step.

Press around the top of the carrier. If desired, use your sewing machine to topstitch around the top edge, which can also serve to further secure the strap.

At the bottom opening, distribute the “loft” of the lining, pin- ning the lining and outer fabric together. Hand baste these layers together, in preparation for adding the base.

Creating and Adding the Base

Now that you have the final fit of the carrier for your bottle, you can create your “pattern” for making the base.

First, turn the carrier so the lining side is out. Place a tape measure around the carrier to get the circumference measurement.

Next, use the following simple math formula to determine diameter for your circle: D = C/𝜋 (Diameter = Circumference divided by 3.14159)

This means, take the circumference measurement, and divide that number by 3.14. This will give you the diameter - the distance across your circle from side to side.

(For example, our carrier has a circumference of 9.5 inches. When dividing 9.5” by 3.14, the result is 3.02”. This was rounded off to 3”.)

Draw a circle on a piece of paper that is your diameter measurement. Cut out the pattern piece. Lay the pattern onto your fabric “sandwich”, consisting of outer fabric, thermal batting, and lining fabric. Cut the three fabrics using the pattern. It may be helpful to hand baste the layers together before sewing the base to the main carrier, to prevent the layers from shifting.

With the main carrier turned lining side out, pin the base to the bottom of the carrier, adjusting any small amount of fullness as you pin. Stitch the base to the main carrier. Turn the carrier right side out.

ALTERNATIVE EMBELLISHMENT: FLATLOCK STITCHING

This bottle carrier is constructed in basically the same way as the first carrier, with some differences in the design of the outer part of the carrier. This version features a section that has color blocking, created by joining strips

of fabric using a flatlock stitch with decorative thread. The upper section of the carrier is made from a lightweight cork fabric, providing a more rustic look and feel than if using regular fabric.

Your HUSQVARNA® VIKING® AMBER™ Air S|600 coverlock machine has several flatlock stitch options from which to choose. For this project, the wide 2-thread flatlock stitch was used, which is Stitch #19 on your machine’s screen. The 2-thread flatlock stitch is sewn using a needle in left position, and the lower looper. The upper looper is not used and has its 2-thread converter engaged.

For the stitches to have a bold appearance, use a topstitching thread in the needle, and a regular weight thread in the lower looper. When you choose your stitch, the optimum stitch length, thread tension and differential feed is selected for you. However, because the needle thread being used is thicker than a regular thread, it is usually necessary

to change the tension settings. In addition, using thicker thread usually requires an adjustment to the stitch length setting, so that the stitches aren’t too close together.

Before stitching, it may be helpful to apply a lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the fabrics for stability, depending on the type of fabric being used. For the “ladder” side of the flatlock stitches to appear on the “right” side of the project, place the fabrics with right sides together. Sew the stitch. When finished, the needle thread will look like a series of “V’s”. This will allow you to gently pull the sides of the fabric so it lies flat.

Press the stitched piece flat. Place the next color strip in place on top of the previously finished piece, with right sides facing one another. Stitch, then gently “open” the fabrics as before, then press. Continue until the desired number of color blocked rows are done. Press.

If desired, add a contrasting fabric at the top of this front piece of your carrier. Follow the guidelines for the previous carrier to resume construction of this carrier.

Don’t forget to share your projects with us on Instagram, tagging @husqvarnavikingsewingaus and using the hashtags #Husqvarnavikingsewing #keepingtheworldsewing #husqvarnavikingaustralia or our Facebook page Husqvarna Viking Australia.

Download this project here

We are thrilled to announce Aims from Indy Bindy Fabrics as part of our blogging team.

Meet Aims:

Aim's love of fabrics and sewing drives her creative work, and people seek her out for help in crafting pieces they truly love. For Aims, it comes down to three things: expressing who she is through the clothing she creates, supporting the artisans who create the fabrics in her shop, and sparking the creativity of other sewist through her signature membership, The Indy Bindy Sewciety.

The Sewciety, is where she helps garment sewists of all levels to get the most out of their sewing practice through monthly classes, live calls, incredible guest speakers and so much more to get the sewing inspiration flowing!

Aims is also the founder of Indy Bindy fabrics - an online fabric store that supports independent Japanese designers, introducing their textiles to sewists allover the world.

Aims is a coffee drinking, big earring wearing, print and colour lover. Canberran born and bred, but with the love of exploring the world, Aims has lived in seven different countries and made Japan a second home of sorts. Nothing lights her up more than sharing her passion for sewing and inspiring creativity.

You can find Aims' fabrics and information on the Sewciety at https://indybindy.com.au/ . You can connect with her on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/indybindyfabrics .

The Husqvarna Viking AMBER™ Air S|400

Aims will be using the AMBER™ Air S|400 overlocker for her blogs during our collaboration. This machine features air threading loopers, built-in needle threader, 15 stitches, differential feed, LED lighting and so much more!

Want to learn more about this great machine? Check it out here.

We are delighted to have Aims join us and am sure her passion for sewing and extensive experience will captivate our readers.

Get ready to be amazed by her incredible talent and sewing wisdom as she takes us on a stylish journey through the world of garments. Stay tuned for Aim's exciting blog posts and get ready to unleash your creativity with her expert guidance. Welcome aboard, Aims!

We're excited to share this step-by-step guide with you that will help you create a beautiful and functional picnic quilt perfect for your next outdoor adventure.

Based on the Project Bow Tie Picnic Quilt Originally posted on mySewnet.com from the mySewnet Archives.

Let’s get started!

Requirements:

Each block requires three red 11cm (4”) squares and two blue 4” squares. The resulting block is 18cm ( 7”) (6 1/2” finished). We used 24 bow tie blocks and 24 plain blocks in our quilt which measures approximately 102cm x 132cm (40” x 52”).

Husqvarna Viking Sewing Machine
Red and Blue Scraps for Bow Tie Squares
1 Yard Cotton for Backing and Backing
Serger (Overlocker) Cone Thread
30 wt. Cotton Thread for Quilting

How to Sew:

1 - Cut three red (11cm x 11cm) 4” x 4” blocks and two blue 11cm x 11cm(4” x 4”) blocks for each block.

2 - Place the first blue square right side up on the table. Fold a red square wrong sides together for the center and place as shown, on top of the blue square.

3 - Place a red square right side down, on top of the two. Overlock across the top edge as shown.

4 - Open out so that the red square and the blue square are up and the folded center is down, as shown.

5 - Sandwich the bottom of the center folded piece with a blue square on top and a red square on the bottom. Right sides of the squares are together, with the folded center in between them. Serge across the bottom edge as shown.

6 - Open out the piece. Place the squares right sides together, matching the seams. The center will open out and get caught in the seam. Stitch across the bottom, catching the center in the seam. You may want to pin this seam, but be sure to keep the pins away from the cutter.

7 - Press the blocks.

8 - Using your rotary cutter and ruler, trim the blocks to 7”. To do this, align the 3 1/2” line on your ruler with the center seam and cut, as shown.

9 - Arrange your quilt squares alternating with the solid squares. We alternated the direction of our bow tie squares as shown.

10 - Sew first into rows, and then sew the rows together to finish the quilt top.

11 - Layer the back and quilt top wrong sides together, with batting in between, to form a quilt sandwich.

12 - Safety pin baste the layers together.

13 - Select a zig zag stitch 4 Width and 4 Length on your HUSQVARNA VIKING sewing machine. Stitch a zig zag over the seams of the squares.

14 - Bind as desired

By creating your own a Bow Tie Picnic Quilt can be a rewarding and enjoyable project. Whether you're an experienced quilter or a beginner, this DIY project offers plenty of opportunities for creativity and personalization.

Not only is the a Bow Tie Picnic Quilt a practical and functional item for outdoor picnics, but it also serves as a beautiful handmade piece of art that you can proudly display in your home. The timeless bow tie pattern adds a touch of elegance and charm to any space.

If you make a Bow Tie Picnic Quilt or any other projects on our blog be sure to tag us at @husqavrnaviking_sewing_aus on Instagram and use the hashtag #husqvarnavikingsewing, so we can see your wonderful creations.

Download Project Instructions

Let's create even more organisational pockets for Dad's Tool Belt with Pockets and Holders with part three of this project!

Larger Tool Holder with Pockets

Finished size 28cm x 20cm (11"x8")

Materials:

Cordura fabric or similar 110cm x 20cm (44” x 8”)
Webbing 2cm (¾”) wide 12cm (5”)
Webbing 2.5cm (1”) wide 5cm (2”)
Sewing thread

How to sew:

1 - Fold the webbing around the D-ring and stitch it together close to the D-ring. Use the zipper foot for this.

2 - Fold the fabric piece wrong sides together. Topstitch close to the edge on all sides.

3 - Make a line 15cm (6”) in from the short edge (the one with raw edges) Also make small marks 2.5cm (1”) and 7.5cm (3”) from the right edge.

4 - Place the 2cm (¾”) wide webbing piece between the marks and let the edge of the webbing overlap about 1cm (⅜”). Stitch in place through all layers.

5 - Align the short edge with the drawn line and stitch in place, close to the edge. This will make the belt tunnel.

6 - Make a line 2.5cm (1”) below the stitched line. Place the D-Ring with the webbing on the right side just under the line. Stitch in place.

7 -

Align the other short edge with the drawn line to make a pocket. Stitch close to the edge on both edges. Do not stitch the edges of the belt tunnel!

Optional: You can divide the pocket with stitched lines if you prefer.

Tool Belt:

Material:

Webbing for belts 5cm (2”) wide 2 pieces old seatbelts works fine! Length depending on user, waist width plus 25cm (10”)
Sewing thread

How to sew:

1 - Fold one end of the webbing around the belt buckle, topstitch to secure the belt end. Use the zipper foot for this.

2 - Lay the other webbing strip on top and topstitch them together along the edges.

3 - Insert the remaining end of the belt in the other half of the buckle.

4 - Your belt is now finished.

Congratulations on finishing your tool belt with pockets and holders! Your dad will be sure to love this gift for Father’s Day!

Do you love how versatile the tool belt with pockets and holders is? Why not make one for yourself as well. It would also be a great way to keep your sewing equipment on hand.

If you make this tool belt with pockets and holders, or any other projects on our blog be sure to tag us at @husqavrnaviking_sewing_aus on Instagram and use the hashtag #husqvarnavikingsewing, so we can see your wonderful creations.

Now that you are ready to continue on with your tool belt with pockets and holders, let's get our equipment ready! If you are new to this project and want to make your own, Here check out How to Make a Tool Belt with Pockets and Holders (Part One)

Small Things Pocket with Zipper

(Finished size 18cm x 16cm (7"x6 1/2"))

Materials (for each pocket)

Cordura fabric or similar 33cm x 18cm (13” x 7”)
Glass Fibre Mosquito net or mesh for bags 18cm x 16cm (7”x 6½”)
Zipper 15cm (6”) long
D-ring 2.5cm (1”) wide opening
Webbing 2.5cm (1”) wide 5cm (2”) long
Sewing thread

How to Sew:

1 - On the right side of the fabric piece, make a line 2.5cm (1”) from the short edge. Make another line 1cm (⅜”) from that. Make one line on each side to form a rectangle, 2.5cm (1”) in from the edge.

2 - On the other short side make a line 2.5cm (1”) from the edge and another 11cm (4½”) below that. Make two lines 2.5cm (1”) in from the sides to make a rectangle.

3 - Cut out the rectangular openings

4 - Place the mosquito net under the large opening and topstitch in place close to the edge and about 6mm (¼”) from the edge.

5 - Place the zipper under the small opening and topstitch as described in the step before

6 - Fold the webbing around the D-ring and stitch it together close to the D-ring. Use the zipper foot for this.

7 - Fold the fabric piece wrong sides together. Put the Webbing with the D-ring between the layers and pin in place. Topstitch through all layers close to the edge all around. Reinforce the stitching over the webbing part.

Your zippered pocket is now finished.

Small Things Pockets with Velcro Closure

Finished size 12cm x 12cm (5"x5")

Materials (for each pocket)

Cordura fabric or similar 30cm x 12cm (12” x 5”)
Glass Fiber Mosquito net or mesh for bags 10cm x 10cm (4” x4”)
Velcro 10cm (4”)
D-ring 2.5cm (1”) wide opening
Webbing 2.5cm (1”) wide 5cm (2”) long, 2 pieces
Sewing thread

How to Sew

1 - Draw an 8cm x 8cm (3” x 3”) square on the right side of the fabric 2cm (1”) in from the bottom edge and 2.5cm (1”) in from the sides.

2 - Cut out the square to make an opening. Put the mosquito net under and stitch in place close to the edge and 6mm (¼”) away.

3 - Fold the webbing around the D-ring and stitch it together close to the D-ring. Use the zipper foot for this.

4 - Attach the Velcro piece (hard side) centred on the short edge above the mosquito net opening.

5 - Fold the other webbing piece double and place it in the middle of the opposite short side on the wrong side of the fabric. Place the soft Velcro piece on top and stitch in place.

6 - Fold the pocket piece up 12cm (5”). Put the D-ring with webbing between the layers on the right side. Topstitch close to the edge around the whole pocket.

7 - Fold the lid so the Velcro pieces meet. Your pocket is now finished.

Your pocket holder is now finished. Use carabiner clips to attach the pockets.

Congratulations on finishing Part One of the Tool Belt with Pockets and Holders Project! We hope you are enjoying this project so far and stay tuned for Part Three!

If you make a Tool Belt with Pockets and Holders or any other projects on our blog be sure to tag us at @husqavrnaviking_sewing_aus on Instagram and use the hashtag #husqvarnavikingsewing, so we can see your wonderful creations.

Does your dad love to tinker around the house? Does he always lose or misplace his tools? Why not make him a handy tool belt with pockets and holders as a Father’s Day gift!

These versatile tool holders are constructed for daily use. The pockets can be combined depending on the task. The pockets are great to store screws, washers, and other small stuff. Just clip on to the belt when needed.

Let’s get Started!

What you need:

The detailed supply list with measurements for the different pockets are listed under the instruction for each of them, but the materials used are:

Nonfraying sturdy fabric, like Cordura or synthetic canvas
Strong sewing thread
D-rings 2.5cm (1”) width
Velcro
Mesh or thick mosquito net, the one used for window frames.
Webbing. 2cm (¾”) and 2.5cm (1”) width
Webbing for belt 5cm (2”) width
Plastic coiled zipper for bags
Carabiner clips

Padded mobile Pocket:

Material:

1 - Cordura fabric

(1) X 110cm x 10cm (44” x 4”)
(2) X 7cm x 12cm (3” x 5”)

2 - Foam batting

(1) X 38cm x 8cm (15”x 3”)

3 - Velcro

(1) 5cm (2”) long

4 - Webbing

(1) 2cm (¾”) wide X 20cm (8”)

5 - Sewing thread

How to sew:

1 - Fold the small cordura pieces in half lengthwise and topstitch close to the edge on all four sides to hold the piece together. Make a line 6mm (¼”) from the long raw edge on each piece.

2 - Fold the long piece together in half. Make a mark 4cm (1½”) from the top and place the soft Velcro piece there. Topstitch in place, only on the top layer! Turn the folded piece over, with the attached Velcro piece facing down.

3 - Make a mark 30cm (12”) from the folded edge. Place the webbing piece there, it should extend towards the open short edges of the fabric piece.

Stitch in place with a square about 2.5cm (1”) long at the end where you made the mark.

4 - Make a mark on each side of the fabric piece, 2.5cm (1”) from the fold and another 12cm (5”) further down the raw edges.

Place the side pieces between the marks with the 6mm (¼”) line at the edge, The side pieces should be placed between the two layers of the folded fabric piece.

5 - Topstitch the long edges of the folded fabric piece together close to the edge catching the side pieces in the stitching.

6 - Insert the foam batting from the short open edge. Move it all the way up to the folded edge. Use a knitting needle or similar to the position in place.

7 - Make a mark 15cm (6”) from the open short edge on the back (the side without the attached webbing piece) and fold the edge up to that mark. Topstitch in place to make the belt tunnel. Take care not to catch the webbing in the stitching.

8 - Turn the right side up, and make a mark 18cm (7”) from the folded edge, that is 2.5cm (1”) above the side pieces. Fold the short side up on this mark and stitch the side pieces onto the sides close to the edge.

9 - Finally, turnabout 2.5cm (1”) of the webbing to the right side and place the hard piece of Velcro on top. Topstitch in place. If needed the webbing could be cut off before adding the Velcro.

Your padded mobile phone holder is now finished.

Small things Pocket Holder

Materials:

Cordura fabric or similar 21cm x 15cm (8½” x 6”)
Velcro 10cm (4”)
Webbing 2.5cm (1”) wide 12cm (5”)
2 D-rings 2.5cm (1”) opening
Sewing thread

How to sew:

1 - Fold the long sides towards the middle wrong sides together. Pin in place.

2 - Topstitch close to the folded edges and make a topstitching close to the raw edges in the middle, one on each side.

3 - Change to the zipper foot. Fold one of the edges of the webbing piece over the D-ring about 2cm (¾”) and topstitch in place. Repeat on the other end of the webbing.

4 - Place the webbing piece on the middle of the fabric piece. Stitch in place. The excess webbing in the middle will form a loop to hang a screwdriver in.

5 - Place the hard side of the Velcro on one of the short ends on the wrong side. Adjust the length of the Velcro piece and topstitch in place.

6 - Divide the soft piece of the Velcro in two. Place them on the front at the other short end, one on each side. Top Stitch in place.

Your pocket holder is now finished. Use carabiner clips to attach the pockets.

Congratulations on finishing Part One of the Tool Belt with Pockets and Holders Project! We hope you are enjoying this project so far and stay tuned for Part Two!