Your overlocker can be used to as interesting surface design embellishments to your sewing projects! This simple tote has a striped design created by joining fabric strips using a 2-thread flatlock stitch. The "ladder" side of the flatlock stitching shows on the bag's outer side, then a narrow ribbon is woven in and out of the ladders for a decorative effect.
Finished size of the bag is 15" long by 13" (38.1cm x 33cm) wide plus the handles.
Materials:
Overlocking machine with 2-thread capability
Sewing machine
Total of 7 strips 30" long x 4" wide (for the 2 handles)
34" x 15" of lining fabric (will be trimmed to size after bag front is prepared)
7 yards of 1/8" ribbon
1 spool of construction thread for your sewing machine
Tapestry needle (for weaving the 1/8" ribbon in and out of the stitching)
Fabric spray starch (optional depending on fabric used)
Preparing to Sew the Fabric Strips
The outer bag fabric is created by flatlock stitching the fabric strips together. For the "ladder" side of the stitches to appear on the front side of the fabric, the strips are stitched with right sides facing.
Of the seven total strips cut to for the bag front, the two wider strips are placed on the far left and the far right, with the narrow strips in between these. Play with the colour arrangement until you find your preferred combination.
Before you begin stitching, it may be helpful to apply fabric spray starch for added stability to the fabric strips as you work with them. Experiment with some scraps of the fabric you will be using to construct the bag, to help determine if the spray starch is desired.
What you are looking for is the strips to have a slight bit of firmness and body, so that they can support the manipulation you will be doing to the seams.
Set the machine for the 2-Thread Flatlock, Wide. Thread your machine and set the tensions per your instruction manual recommendations for the 2-Thread Flatlock, Wide. Set the cutting Width to a medium setting. Set the Stitch Length to a medium setting as well. Test the stitch length on some fabric scraps and fine-tune the machine settings as needed.
the stitch loops should meet at the edge of the fabric, without pulling to either side.
The diagram below shows the strip layout for the outer bag. (Not to scale)
Sewing Flatlock Rows
Place the first fabric right side up on a flat surface. Place the 2nd fabric with its right side down, facing the first strip. Use the edge of the needle plate as a guide for the raw edges - you should only be trimming stray threads from the raw edges as you go.
When you are finished stitching this first seam, gently pull the fabrics so that the seams lie flat. The "ladders" of the flatlock stitch will appear on the right side. Don't work the fabric too hard or the seam may distort. - just take your time and gently pull the strips. Press when finished with the first row of stitching.
Place fabric strip #3 with its right side facing down onto the right side of strip #2. Stitch, with raw edges, lined up with the edge of the needle plate, just trimming any stray threads. When this row is finished, repeat as you did for the first row - gently pull the fabric strips so the stitch lies flat. Press. Continue this process until you have sewn all strips together.
Adding the Ribbon Embellishment
Cut a length of the 1/8" ribbon that is approximately 3" longer than the length of the fabric, so that you are sure to have enough extra while weaving the ribbon between the stitches. Thread the tapestry needle with the ribbon.
For this project, the ribbon is woven through the stitching so that it goes over 4 stitches, then under 4 stitches, repeating this rhythm throughout the entire length of the flatlock seam. (if you prefer, try a different pattern for weaving the ribbon, such as over 3 stitches and under 3 stitches, or perhaps over 2 stitches and under 4 stitches etc. you may want to practice on a piece of scrap fabric to determine the look you want for your project.
Weave a length of ribbon through each of the flatlock seams. When finished weaving all rows, lightly press the whole bag piece.
Trim the embellished bag front section so that it measures 31" x 14". Set aside for now to prepare the handles.
NOTE: It's a good idea to secure the ribbon at each end before you continue with the bag, to help prevent the ribbon from coming out of the stitches as you work. Use a hand needle and thread to secure the ribbon ends with the seam allowance at each end of the bag.
Making the Carry Handles
For each of the two 30" x 4" strips, fold in half lengthwise with the right side of the fabric out. Press. Open the pressed strip and now fold each alongside so that the raw edges meet at the crease you just pressed. Press again.
Now fold in half and press once more. You should now have a strip that measures 1" in width.
Using your sewing machine, edgestitch along each long side of both handles. Press, then set aside for now to prepare the lining.
Preparing the Lining
Using the bag front piece as a guide, trim the lining fabric so that it is the same size as the front piece (31" x 14"). Set the overlock machine for the narrow 3-thread overlock stitch. Starting with the bag front piece, stitch along each long side of the piece, trimming only a scant amount at the edges to "clean finish". Do the same for the bag lining fabric's long edges as you did for the front long edges. Press both pieces.
Finishing the Bag
Pin one carry handle to one short side of the bag front, making sure that the handle isn't twisted. Use a hand sewing needle to baste the needle ends in place within the seam allowance, then remove the pins. Repeat with the other carry handle at the other end of the bag front.
Thread your sewing machine and set it for sewing a straight stitch. Sew the two side seams of the bag front section, using a 1/2" seam allowance. Press the seam open.
Sew one side seam of the bag lining piece using a 1/2" seam allowance. Sew the other side seam with a 1/2" seam allowance, but leave a 5" opening in the middle of the seam.
NOTE: this opening will be used for turning the bag right side out after the outer bag and lining pieces have been sewn together.
Press the seams open.
Turn the outer bag so it's right side out. With the lining wrong side out, pin the bag front and lining together at the top seam (the right side of the bag front should be facing the right side of the bag lining). Sew, using a 1/2" seam allowance.
Turn the outer bag so it is right side out. With the lining wrong side out, pin the bag front and lining together at the top seam (right side of the bag front should be facing the right side of the bag lining). Sew, using a 1/2" seam allowance.
Turn the bag right side out through the opening left in the lining. Press, then topstitch around the top edge of the bag to help keep the carry handles secure.
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